Fred Perry, a stigmatize known for preppy streetwear, has been associated with reactionary groups since shortly after it was founded in 1952, as many historians have pointed out. Most recently, its $ 95 polo shirts have been adopted by the Proud Boys, a group of self-described “ western chauvinists ” who espouse reactionary grandiosity. While group leaders deny being white supremacists, they have however appeared alongside other hate groups at extremist gatherings such as the “ Unite the Right ” tease in Charlottesville, Virginia. The group made headlines last week when President Trump refused to disavow them at the presidential debate, rather telling them to “ stand by. ” That night, Google searches for the Proud Boys spiked, as did searches for Fred Perry, which has become the group ’ s de facto uniform. final week, the brand said it would stop selling this especial shirt in North America as a way of distancing itself from the group . The company was founded by Fred Perry, the son of a wage-earning socialist member of parliament, who became a Wimbledon tennis champion at a time when tennis was an elitist sport. At the start, the brand was a symbol of pride and solidarity among the working class in England. Fred Perry ’ s polo shirts were particularly popular because they were low-cost but besides conveyed a clear, preppy count that had previously been associated with the upper berth classes. young people at the time put their own spin on these shirts, wearing them with scraggy jeans and close cultivate hair. The look first took off in multicultural immigrant neighborhoods in London and was connected to a modern roll of West amerind music, including reggae and ska. “ They were the original ‘ skinheads ’ because of their buzzed haircuts, ” says fashion historian Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, generator of Worn on This Day. “ It wasn ’ triiodothyronine until late that an overtly racist wing splintered off and ‘ skinhead ’ became synonymous with white domination. ” ad
This splinter began to happen in the late 1960s, according to Chrisman-Campbell. skinhead culture spread to the north of England, where Fred Perry shirts became democratic among football fans, partially because the broad rate of colors allowed them to show which team they supported. In 1967, a white nationalist party called the british National Front was founded, and it stationed recruiters outside football stadiums, trying to convince fans that new immigrants from South Asia and the West Indies would take their jobs. The party besides opened social clubs that hosted alive music, which laid the foundation for the racist skinhead hood culture that spread around the world. In the United States, the first skinhead gangs emerged in Texas and the Midwest in the 1980s and were heavily influenced by their british counterparts. The Proud Boys appear to be tipping their hat to this history when they wear the shirt. But they may besides be drawn to Fred Perry ’ south logo. “ The appeal for the Proud Boys seems to be in its laurel wreath logo—a sports citation inconveniently evocative of Nazi imagery—and specific color combinations, ” Chrisman-Campbell speculates. Adolf Hitler ’ s ceremonial flag, for example, featured a black swastika in the center of a yellow wreath. Chrisman-Campbell besides says that in a modern American context, the polo shirt international relations and security network ’ t a peculiarly blatant look, since it ’ mho associated with preppy middle-class culture. She notes that this fashion choice was apparent at the Unite the Right rally in 2017, where many white supremacists and neo-Nazis wear polo gathered in an feat to unify the American whiten nationalist drift. But Chrisman-Campbell says the strategy goes all the way back to the flower of Klan leader David Duke, who frequently wore polo. “ [ This ] is a conscious undertake to normalize hate, ” she says. “ rather than wearing blank hoods or aggressive skinhead gear—think : buzzcuts, tattoo, swastikas—the modern army for the liberation of rwanda correct strives to look as bland, inoffensive, and middle class as possible. ” ad
Fred Perry is immediately actively trying to distance itself from the Proud Boys. A workweek before the presidential argue, the sword posted a statement on its web site saying that it doesn ’ metric ton support the Proud Boys, nor is it affiliated with the group. “ It is incredibly frustrating this group has appropriated our. .. shirt and subverted our Laurel Wreath to their own ends, ” it reads. It besides said it ’ s working with lawyers to pursue any improper use of its brand. We reached out to Fred Perry several times to provide more insight, but the brand had not responded by the time of publication. Julie Zerbo, a lawyer who specializes in fashion and is the founder of the popular Fashion Law blog, says it will be hard for Fred Perry to pursue legal action. If members of the Proud Boys are legally buying shirts with the sword ’ s hallmark, there ’ second nothing they can do about it. “ A brand owner can ’ thyroxine sell a shirt, generate gross and profit, then sue for trademark misdemeanor from legitimate consumers of their product, ” she says. “ That ’ s not to say that Fred Perry ’ south advocate may not come up with a creative cause of action. But sometimes the threat of litigation is equitable a direction for brands to be very clear about where they stand and what their values are. ”
In the end, Fred Perry has taken a more aboveboard approach to dealing with the problem, by halting the sale of scandalmongering and black shirts in the United States and Canada. But it ’ s indecipherable whether this will be enough to stop the Proud Boys from wearing them. For one matter, it ’ s relatively comfortable to buy them in Europe or on eBay. ad But it ’ s besides on-key that Fred Perry hasn ’ triiodothyronine been arsenic aggressive as other fashion brands that have been co-opted by the far right. Sports stigmatize Lonsdale, for example, became associated with neo-Nazis who half-zipped a jacket over the logo, leaving merely the letters NSDA, the acronym for the german Nazi party. But since the mid-2000s, Lonsdale has focused on diverseness in its advertising and sponsored charitable campaigns supporting immigrant and LGBTQ rights. This set about work : The mark is no longer a beloved of the far right. While Fred Perry has spoken out against racism, it hasn ’ thymine undertaken a concert attempt to rebrand itself as an inclusive, liberal label. Until that happens, the company ’ s shirts may continue to be co-opted by white supremacists in their efforts to normalize hate, says Chrisman-Campbell. “ These polos make [ the Proud Boys ] look like preppy Young Republicans, quite than chilling bikers. .. in order to win converts and blend into mainstream club. ” ad ad ad ad
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